Anna Wintour at Vogue: her legacy and who’s next

Anna Wintour steps aside as Vogue editor-in-chief after decades of defining fashion culture

When Anna Wintour submitted her first issue of American Vogue in late 1988, the response from the magazine’s printer was unexpected: “Has there been a mistake?” The cover, featuring model Michaela Bercu in a Christian Lacroix couture jacket paired with jeans, departed from the highly stylized, formal portraits that had defined the magazine for decades. The shot was casual, taken outdoors, and captured a spontaneous energy that would come to symbolize a new chapter for Vogue.

The occurrence established the groundwork for Wintour’s perspective, which would transform more than just the magazine, altering the entire fashion realm. She infused the publication with a touch of realism and approachability, moving away from its former roots in sheer luxury. By opting to showcase a model clad in denim, even though it happened by chance due to a wardrobe error, initiated a societal transformation. It indicated that fashion could be worn in everyday life, not solely during fashion shows.

After establishing her reputation at British Vogue, Wintour was recruited to rejuvenate the American version, and for 37 years, she successfully accomplished that task. With her direction, the magazine confidently navigated through the supermodel epoch, the emergence of grunge, the predominance of celebrity culture, and the shift toward prioritizing digital storytelling. During this period, Wintour consistently demonstrated a keen understanding of the broader cultural implications of fashion and its potential to impact more than just attire.

This week, Wintour announced she would be stepping down from her role as editor-in-chief of Vogue, wrapping up one of the most significant editorial tenures in the fashion world. Even though she will continue as chief content officer at Condé Nast—a position she has held since 2020—her departure from the magazine’s editorial helm signifies the conclusion of a remarkable chapter.

Wintour’s impact with Vogue extends far beyond the boundaries of its magazine. She transformed the norms of fashion covers, significantly including celebrities in a space that was previously reserved solely for models. In her first year, she placed Madonna on the cover—an unanticipated choice that launched a new mix of fashion and popular culture. This began a change that eventually embraced reality TV stars, political figures, and cultural icons appearing on the magazine’s covers.

Throughout her time at Vogue, Wintour attentively responded to public preferences, adjusting the magazine’s approach to reflect broader trends in media and consumer behavior. Her editorial decisions often had real-world effects. For instance, she played a significant role in bringing figures like Kim Kardashian and Ivanka Trump into mainstream fashion discussions, offering them a platform that significantly amplified their visibility.

Este control editorial no dejó de ser cuestionado. Las decisiones de Wintour algunas veces enfrentaron resistencia, como la disputada portada de revista de 2008 con LeBron James y Gisele Bündchen, que provocó debates sobre imágenes raciales y representación. No obstante, estos casos solo reforzaron la realidad de que Wintour se había consolidado como una figura central en el diálogo sobre moda e influencia.

Her unique fashion—characterized by her distinctive bob haircut and iconic sunglasses—became synonymous with her career image. Wintour’s attendance at the Met Gala, the coveted prestige of the September edition, and numerous nods to her image in popular culture (like the imaginary Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada) all cemented her status as a cultural influencer.

Although she projected a mysterious aura regarding her public persona, Wintour often downplayed the attention on herself. She prioritized the innovation and editorial guidance of the publications she handled rather than individual opinions. However, her influence was clear, and she was aware of it, often attending events like the The Devil Wears Prada musical celebration, acknowledging the similarities without overtly confirming them.

Throughout her career, Wintour managed to hold authority in an industry known for volatility. Her ability to remain relevant through seismic shifts in media—from glossy pages to digital platforms—speaks to her adaptability and strategic vision. She recognized early on the importance of online presence, even as traditional print struggled to maintain its audience. Though some critics pointed to an overemphasis on celebrity content in the digital age, Wintour defended the choices as necessary to maintain cultural relevance.

Past coworkers and those knowledgeable in the fashion industry propose that Wintour’s choice to reduce her role was probably made independently. Though she remains the chief content officer, she continues to influence Vogue and other prominent Condé Nast publications, and will supposedly have input in selecting who follows in her footsteps. Anticipation regarding this decision is already rising.

Possible contenders feature Eva Chen, who serves as Instagram’s director of fashion collaborations and offers extensive digital expertise—an essential strength in the current media environment. Chioma Nnadi is also often noted, as she currently manages editorial content at British Vogue, and is seen as one of Wintour’s mentees. Her progression within the company has been observed carefully, symbolizing a potential extension of Wintour’s legacy with a fresh generational perspective.

Other people mentioned include Amy Astley, who used to be in charge of Teen Vogue and currently leads Architectural Digest, as well as senior editors like Chloe Schama and Chloe Malle. Furthermore, Wintour’s daughter, Bee Shaffer Carrozzini, involved in film production within the fashion realm, has also been part of the discussions—though such forecasts are entirely conjectural.

As Wintour departs from the magazine she played a pivotal role in turning into a global powerhouse, experts in the field are assessing her influence. The fashion industry has undergone considerable changes throughout her tenure—not only in aesthetics, but also in its influence on cultural and political conversations. Issues like sustainability, ethical labor conditions, and the digital revolution have shifted fashion from a niche focus to a broader discourse on identity, values, and societal progress.

Wintour, often seen as an influential person in the elite fashion sphere, contributed to making it more approachable—while still maintaining the exceptional levels of style and inventiveness that Vogue is known for. Her ability to merge exclusivity with widespread attraction, and luxury fashion with everyday relevance, is possibly her most lasting accomplishment.

As the sector considers the future, the task for the person following in her footsteps will be to keep managing an ever-changing environment. Juggling the business demands of contemporary media with the cultural duties now associated with fashion won’t be simple. However, Wintour has already contributed to paving this path.

In several ways, her presence at the nuptials of Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sánchez earlier this year underscored her unique cultural influence. By showcasing Sánchez on the front page in 2023, Wintour was more than a participant at the event—she had helped shape the narrative around it.

Considering all her achievements in the publishing industry, Wintour’s greatest influence might be how she expanded the importance of fashion beyond its traditional boundaries. She didn’t just observe trends—she molded them, anticipated them, and, in many cases, created them.

As Anna Wintour steps down from her position as editor-in-chief, Vogue and the larger fashion industry find themselves in a phase of contemplation and change. Her exit signifies more than just the closure of an era—it’s an opportunity to ponder the future direction for a magazine and an industry that she significantly shaped.